Cribbage Board Positions and Streets

The cribbage board is not just a scorekeeper — it is a strategic map. Experienced players read their board position as carefully as their cards, using it to calibrate every decision from discard to pegging lead.

The Four Streets of a Cribbage Board

A standard cribbage board has 120 numbered holes (plus a finish at 121). These are traditionally divided into four streets of 30 holes each:

The term “streets” comes from old cribbage boards that were laid out in straight rows, which players would travel down like streets. Many traditional boards still show four parallel tracks for this reason.

First Street (Holes 1–30): Establish Your Pace

The opening 30 holes are about building position and setting expectations. The game is far from over, but patterns established here matter:

What to Focus On

• Play your normal game — discard optimally, peg efficiently
• Note the dealing order — which player deals last into fourth street matters
• Avoid unforced errors — missing points or giving away pegging opportunities compounds over a game

Strategic Signals

• If you reach 30 and your opponent is at 20, you have a 10-hole lead — meaningful but not decisive
• If you are significantly behind leaving first street, you must tighten your play and look for high-variance opportunities

Average Progress

Most players advance 10-16 holes per full deal (hand + pegging combined). At this rate, first street takes roughly 2-3 deals to traverse.

Second Street (Holes 31–60): Midgame Positioning

By second street, you have dealt 2-4 times each and a clearer picture of the game’s trajectory is forming.

The Midgame Questions

• Are you ahead or behind, and by how much?
• Who has the dealing advantage going forward?
• Is this a close game (within 10-12 holes) or is one player pulling away?

Adjusting Strategy

A 10-hole lead on second street is significant but not safe. The game has roughly 4-6 more deals, each worth 8-16 holes for each player. A lead can evaporate in two poor deals.

A 20+ hole lead on second street puts you in strong position. You can:

• Play slightly more conservative discards (protecting against pegging losses)
• Avoid pegging traps that risk points for small gain
• Focus on consistent scoring rather than high-risk plays

Behind by 15+ holes on second street? You should:

• Favour higher-variance hands when choosing keeps (slight hand EV loss is acceptable for more upside)
• Be more aggressive in pegging — accept counter-attack risk to set up pairs and runs
• Feed your own crib generously even at minor cost to the hand

Third Street (Holes 61–90): The Danger Zone

Third street is where games are decided. Reaching the end of third street (hole 90) behind is a genuine emergency — only 30-31 holes remain, typically representing just 2-3 deals.

The Skunk Line at 91

At hole 91, the skunk line awaits. Being on the losing end of the game while still below 91 means a skunk loss — in match or tournament play, this often counts double. This creates asymmetric urgency:

• Trailing player: Must score aggressively to cross the skunk line, not just to win
• Leading player: Has an extra incentive to win while keeping the opponent below 91

Third Street Strategic Principles

If you are trailing entering third street:

• Count holes remaining and calculate whether your expected scoring per deal can close the gap
• If the math is desperate, increase variance: keep high-potential hands even if EV is similar, peg aggressively

If you are leading entering third street:

• Deny the opponent easy pegging points
• Play your hand conservatively — protect the lead rather than padding it
• Avoid giving free pairs or runs during pegging

The “out in three” rule: Entering third street trailing by more than 30 holes means you likely need an above-average series of deals. That is possible but requires focused play.

Fourth Street (Holes 91–120): Endgame

Every deal on fourth street might be the last. Each counting phase — non-dealer’s hand, then dealer’s hand and crib — could win (or lose) the game before the next phase.

Counting Order Becomes Critical

Hands are counted in this order:

1. Non-dealer’s hand
2. Dealer’s hand
3. Dealer’s crib

If you are the non-dealer: You count first. If your hand brings you to 121, you win even if the dealer also would have reached 121 in their count. This is the non-dealer’s only structural advantage.

If you are the dealer: You cannot win during counting until after the pone has counted. However, you may win during the pegging phase before any counting occurs.

Fourth Street Leads and Trails

Small lead (5-10 holes ahead): Play carefully. One bad pegging deal can flip the game. Avoid risky trapping plays — consistency wins.

Small deficit (5-10 holes behind): You need one good deal. Don’t panic — it happens. Make the best keep and peg every point available.

Large deficit (20+ holes behind) on fourth street: You need exceptional deals AND the opponent to score below average. Consider:

• Keeping highest-potential hands even if current EV is slightly lower
• Aggressive pegging that accepts counter-risk for chance of big runs
• Hoping for a strong crib if you are the dealer

Hole Counting in Practice

Experienced players instinctively track “holes remaining” throughout the game:

Practical calculation: Subtract your current position from 121. Divide by your expected scoring per deal (typically 10-14 holes for average play). The result is roughly how many deals remain.

Reading the Relative Position

Board awareness is not just about your own position — it is about the gap:

A Note on Board Design

Traditional cribbage boards run in a U-shape or oval — players travel from one end, around, and back. The four streets correspond to the four straight sections of these runs. Modern boards sometimes show continuous tracks; the street concept applies regardless of physical layout.

Our cribbage board buying guide covers board styles in depth, including which designs make hole-counting easiest during play.

Further reading: Positional Play Strategy · End-Game Strategy · Dealer Advantage