How to Use a Cribbage Board: Setup, Pegging, and Scoring

Q: "How do you move pegs on a cribbage board?"

"Each player has two pegs. To record a new score, count forward from your front peg by the number of points you scored, then place your back peg in that new hole. Your back peg is now in front. Next time you score, count forward from the new front peg and move the back peg again. The two pegs always alternate positions, letting you verify your previous score by looking at the gap between them."

Q: "What is the starting position on a cribbage board?"

"Both pegs start off the board — either in a designated 'start' hole at position 0, or simply placed to the side. On a traditional out-and-back board, the game starts at the end closest to you and travels away (outward), then back toward you on the return track. On a continuous-track board, follow the direction of the numbered holes."

Q: "How do you know who is winning from the cribbage board?"

"The player whose front peg is furthest along the board is winning. On a traditional out-and-back board, compare which player's lead peg is furthest along the track (accounting for the turn). A quick way: count how many holes separate each player's front peg from the game hole — whichever player has fewer holes to go is ahead."

Q: "What happens if you miscount and move too many holes?"

"This is called overpegging. In casual play, simply move the peg back to the correct position. In tournament play (under muggins rules), overpegging can result in a penalty — moving your peg backward to where it should be, and your opponent may claim the difference. Always count carefully before moving."

Q: "Do all cribbage boards work the same way?"

"The pegging principle (two pegs per player, leap-frog movement, race to 121) is universal across all board styles. The physical layout varies: traditional boards have two parallel rows of 30 holes per player (travel out and back); continuous-track boards have a single winding path of 121 holes; novelty boards may have different shapes. The hole count to win is always 121."

How to set up a cribbage board, move pegs correctly, read your score at a glance, track streets, and avoid common pegging errors. Clear guide for beginners.

Updated: April 23, 2026 · 6 min read

By Garrett Pegg · Reviewed against ACC standards

How to Use a Cribbage Board

The cribbage board is the game’s most distinctive feature — and one of the first things that confuses new players. This guide explains exactly how to set up the board, move pegs, and read your score at any point in the game.

The Two Types of Cribbage Board

Traditional Out-and-Back Board

The most common style:

START
|  • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •  | ← Player 1 outward (30 holes)
|  • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •  | ← Player 1 return (30 holes)
|  ● GAME HOLE
|  • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •  | ← Player 2 outward (30 holes)
|  • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •  | ← Player 2 return (30 holes)
END

Travel direction: start at the near end → travel outward (first row) → turn → travel back (second row) → peg into the game hole.

Total holes per player: 30 + 30 = 60 × 2 laps = 120 scoring holes + 1 game hole = 121.

Continuous-Track Board

A single winding path per player, numbered 1–121. Follow the numbers in order. No need to track “laps” — just move along the path. Popular with beginners for clarity.

Setting Up the Board

Place the board between both players with each player’s track on their side
Both players start with both pegs off the board (or in a designated “0” position at the start)
Decide who deals first (low card cut)
The dealer’s side is typically nearest the dealer, though this is a preference, not a rule

That’s it. No other setup is needed.

The Two-Peg System

Each player has two pegs. This is the foundation of the board’s design — and the part that confuses most beginners.

Why Two Pegs?

Two pegs allow you to:

Show your current score (the forward peg)
Show your previous score (the back peg)
Verify any move by checking the gap between pegs

If someone disputes a score, both players can see exactly how many holes were just pegged. The gap between your two pegs always equals the points you scored on your most recent turn.

The Leap-Frog Method

Every time you score points, you move your back peg — not your front peg.

Count forward from your front peg by the number of points you scored. Place your back peg in that hole. Now your back peg is in front. On your next score, your “front peg” is the one that just moved forward (the old back peg), and you move the other peg again.

The two pegs alternate positions with every score, creating a leap-frog pattern.

Step-by-Step: How to Peg a Score

Starting position: Both pegs at position 0 (off the board).

Example: You score 6 points during the first pegging phase.

Count 6 holes forward from your current front peg position (position 0)
Place your back peg in hole 6
Your front peg remains at 0 (marking your previous score)
Your score is now 6

Next score: You count your hand and score 8 points.

Count 8 holes forward from your front peg (hole 6)
Hole 6 + 8 = hole 14
Place your back peg in hole 14
Your front peg remains at hole 6 (your previous score marker)
Your score is now 14

Verification: The gap between your pegs = 14 − 6 = 8. This confirms you just pegged 8. ✓

Reading the Board Mid-Game

Whose Front Peg Is Where?

On a traditional out-and-back board, determining relative position requires knowing which lap each player is on.

First lap (outward journey): Holes 1–30
Second lap (return journey): Holes 31–60

A peg on hole 5 of the return journey (position 35) is ahead of a peg on hole 25 of the outward journey (position 25).

Quick shortcut: Most boards print “streets” — groups of 5 holes — to make counting easier. Count streets instead of individual holes for a quick position read.

Continuous-Track Boards

Simply look at the numbers. Higher number = more points = further along. No lap confusion.

Recognizing Key Positions

Learn these positions by sight:

Hole	Significance
61	Double-skunk line (traditional out-and-back: turn point + 1 hole back)
91	Skunk line — if you win before opponent reaches here, they’re skunked
120	The stinkhole — one point from winning
121	The game hole — victory

On most boards, the skunk line at 91 is marked with a stripe, different color, or small label.

Common Pegging Mistakes

Mistake 1: Moving the Front Peg Instead of the Back Peg

The most common beginner error. Always move the back peg forward. Moving the front peg forward makes it impossible to verify your previous score.

Mistake 2: Counting from the Wrong Peg

Count forward from your current front peg (the peg in the higher-numbered hole). Not from the back peg, not from position zero.

Mistake 3: Overpegging

Moving too many holes — intentionally or accidentally. In casual play, both players should confirm the score before moving. In tournament play, overpegging results in a penalty.

Mistake 4: Losing Track of Direction

On out-and-back boards, players sometimes forget to turn at the end and start going back the wrong way. Place a small marker at the turnaround, or use a continuous-track board to eliminate this issue entirely.

Mistake 5: Starting on the Wrong Row

Each player uses the same side of the board for both their outward and return rows — just in opposite directions. The two rows nearest each player both belong to that player.

During the Game: When to Peg

Score (and peg) immediately when you earn points:

When it happens	Peg immediately
Nibs (starter Jack)	Before pegging phase starts
Scoring during pegging	After each play (fifteen, pair, run, go, 31, last card)
After hand count	After announcing and verifying your hand total
After crib count	Dealer pegs crib last

Don’t batch up points across multiple events — peg after each scoring event as it happens.

Tracking Without a Board

If you don’t have a board, track scores on paper with two columns (one per player). Tally each score as it’s announced. Without the visual leap-frog system, disputes are harder to resolve — this is why the cribbage board exists.

The Score Calculator can also help verify hand counts, though it doesn’t replace the board for tracking cumulative game scores.

For board buying advice, see the Cribbage Board Buying Guide.

No physical board? Play cribbage online free — scoring and pegging are handled automatically.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you move pegs on a cribbage board?

Each player has two pegs. To record a new score, count forward from your front peg by the number of points you scored, then place your back peg in that new hole. Your back peg is now in front. Next time you score, count forward from the new front peg and move the back peg again. The two pegs always alternate positions, letting you verify your previous score by looking at the gap between them.

What is the starting position on a cribbage board?

Both pegs start off the board — either in a designated ‘start’ hole at position 0, or simply placed to the side. On a traditional out-and-back board, the game starts at the end closest to you and travels away (outward), then back toward you on the return track. On a continuous-track board, follow the direction of the numbered holes.

How do you know who is winning from the cribbage board?

The player whose front peg is furthest along the board is winning. On a traditional out-and-back board, compare which player’s lead peg is furthest along the track (accounting for the turn). A quick way: count how many holes separate each player’s front peg from the game hole — whichever player has fewer holes to go is ahead.

What happens if you miscount and move too many holes?

This is called overpegging. In casual play, simply move the peg back to the correct position. In tournament play (under muggins rules), overpegging can result in a penalty — moving your peg backward to where it should be, and your opponent may claim the difference. Always count carefully before moving.

Do all cribbage boards work the same way?

The pegging principle (two pegs per player, leap-frog movement, race to 121) is universal across all board styles. The physical layout varies: traditional boards have two parallel rows of 30 holes per player (travel out and back); continuous-track boards have a single winding path of 121 holes; novelty boards may have different shapes. The hole count to win is always 121.